"This must be one of the world’s great wine co-operatives, on a par with La Chablisienne, the Wachau’s Freie Weingärtner and the Produttori di Barbaresco. The vast majority of Naoussa’s growers have tiny holdings. Only 20 or so grow enough grapes to contemplate making a living from them. Most of the rest sell them to this exemplary organization, which offers a degree of technical and marketing expertise that is quite remarkable."