"The wines of Madiran are often thought of as robust, with the Tannat grape throwing its significant weight around the palate. Enter Christine Dupuy, a game changer in the region, with a mission to fight the Tannat stereotype. Dupuy took over Domaine Labranche Laffont in 1993, becoming the youngest female winemaker in the region. The vineyard, located in the small commune of Maumusson-Laguian, has grown from 6 to 20 hectares under Dupuy’s guidance, with organically grown native varieties- including Tannat, Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng as well as Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The estate is known as the keeper of hidden gems, as Christine is one of two winemakers in Madiran to own Tannat vines that date back to the pre-phylloxera era at the end of the 19th century (1870's). Trust us; they are a big, gnarly deal.

The vines benefit from the silty clay and limestone soils, along with south - southeast facing, gentle hillsides around the domaine. The vineyard is certified 'ecocert', with Christine working mostly by hand in the vineyard. Soils are ploughed in Spring and Autumn; vines are fertilised using compost in the Autumn, and grass is left to grow between every second vine. Grapes are hand-harvested at perfect ripeness, before being sorted and de-stemmed. Fermentation is conducted in a temperature controlled vat with gentle pumping over for the reds. Malolactic and ageing occurs in old barrel, with a focus on minimal sulphites and lightly filtered (unfined) bottling.

The red Madiran is deep, with aromas of spices, leather, and dark chocolate. The palate brings ripe, soft fruits and liquorice, and an elegant framework with fine tannins. It’s safe to say Dupuy has nailed her aim to produce approachable, elegant Tannat. These wines, much like their maker, have a natural ability to charm and leave you with a smile."

Flor impressions:

"This 'vieilles vignes' cuvee is a favorite of mine every year. Whenever I meet a self-professed "old school Bordeaux lover," I try to turn them on to traditional Madiran, of which none fits the bill better than Christine Dupuy's old vine cuvee (apologies to Alain Brumont!). Why? Because this thing packs all of the chewy tannins, dense flavors of cassis and black plum, savory nuance and unapologetic oak influence of a vin de garde made in another era. She gives this wine a long (up to 24 month) elevage in around 20% new oak barriques, enough to impart a touch of mocha and nutmeg to the background, while also softening the ample tannic structure of this dense wine. The Tannat comes from a few plots that are at least 50 years old, one of which is one of the rare pre-phylloxera vineyards dating back to the late 1800s. There is no replacement for vine age when it comes to producing wine of concentration, as these vines have long since settled into naturally low yields. The result is a wine that fills up the palate, ending with a remarkably long, complex finish. Given its concentration of flavor and balanced, high level of tannin and acid, this wine will easily age for ten years or more, a rare thing to say about a sub-$30 wine."

-Gaston 3/22/24