When you're on the right path, there are usually signs along the way that help guide you towards the destination. While preparing for our upcoming Austrian wine class, last week the sign came in the form of our tasting with visiting producer Maria Koppitsch of Koppitsch winery. Their wines reflect the sunnier side of the Burgenland region, displaying a "seriously playful" throughline in all of their new releases.
Natural wine importer Jenny & Francois Selections summarizes husband and wife team, Alex & Maria Koppitsch perfectly: 'Salt of the earth, joy of the lake'. The estate was founded by Alex's grandfather in 1947 though the family's roots in the Neusiedl-am-See township can be traced back to 1523.
It's a fairly common tale for the newest generation to transition the winery's farming, but in this case it's been organic since its inception. Building on the strength of an already healthy vineyard, they have been implementing biodynamic methods since taking over in 2011 with little to no sulphur additions. Sustainability, and respect for traditions is the mantra here. In the cellar, the family still uses their grandfather’s old press, barrels and other equipment, in line with their belief that “If you take good care of your tools, you can use them forever”.
The Koppitsch holdings total 15.5 acres spread over 4 plots. The natural wealth of the vineyards here is truly exceptional as the vines sit over a kaleidoscope of soil types: sand, clay, gravel, loam, limestone, and schist depending on the plot. Thanks to this, they are able to plant a diverse array of varieties including Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay for the whites; St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and Syrah for the reds.
2023 Koppitsch, 'Rozsa' Rosé - Named for the region's historic ties to neighboring Hungary, 'Rozsa' is the Hungarian word for pink. This blend leans on equal parts Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch with St. Laurent, Pinot Noir and Syrah playing in the background. An inviting bouquet of raspberries, white peach, dried rose petals, wet stones and flint greet from the glass. The palate is mineral-forward with a fresh acidity that pushes its light bodied, juicy-silky texture towards a complex crisp, dry, fruity and floral finish. Vines here sit on a combination of clay, sand and limestone, no sulphur added.
2022 Koppitsch, 'Abendrot' Red - Normally we define tension in a wine as the interplay between acidity and concentration, but this is the first time we've experienced it as the interplay between red & white grapes. 'Abendrot' translates to 'afterglow' which is fitting as contemplating its complexity sinks in if you're able to get past its easy drinking nature. Meant to capture the limestone soils found in the rocky hills of Neuberg site, it blends all the varietals found there: Welschriesling, Rosenmuskateller, Blaufrankisch, Saint Laurent, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. While it seems like a lot, the wine is harmony and opens with notes of strawberrries, apricots, hibiscus, iron and wild herbs. The palate opens with the freshness of a white, that flows into a mineral-dense, juicy profile associated with reds. The finish is fruity, floral, earthy, and herbal. No added sulphur.
Truth be told, all of the wines we tasted with Maria reflected the terroir, and levity of the winemakers' intent, but these 2 were unlike any others we've sampled from Burgenland, or Austria in general. Through impeccable farming, and diversity of soil types, these wines communicated "natty" without the "nattiness" that's often associated with hands off winemaking.
Welcome Spring with this 2 pack, specially priced for a limited time!