Vaira Aurelj, 'Controcorrente' Vino Rosso 2023
Italy / Red

Vaira Aurelj, 'Controcorrente' Vino Rosso 2023

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Fruit

Earth

Acid

Body

Tannins

Sergio's Pick

Italian wine is my go-to for attitude driven bottles and this one literally labels itself as such. The vineyards for this wine are adjacent to the Fossatti Cru which straddles the subzones of La Morra and Barolo itself. Despite sharing the same soil type, and orientation, these vineyards are not recognized by the original appellation laws and are thus forbidden from using Barolo on its label.

So what do you do when you have an unrecognized, high quality site but can’t label it as such: You call it a table wine and rely on wine geeks like me to tell you how good it is.

Controcorrente means ‘against the tide’. This is a different style of Nebbiolo as it is made from the Rosé biotype, producing lighter-hued, elegant wines.

This is a seriously delicious Nebbiolo, light enough for any summer adventure or warm winter night. 

Country
Italy
Region
Piemonte
Varieties
Nebbiolo
Farming
Organic (not certified), cover crops, no pesticides or chemical products, only copper and sulfur treatments, Guyot-Poussard pruning.
Soil
Coste di Vergne, 3 km from Barolo. 400 m elevation, south-facing, clay-limestone with a small percentage of sand.
Winemaking
10-20% whole cluster, 2-week fermentation started with an ambient yeast pied de cuve, extraction by punch-downs and a few pump-overs, pressed, only the free run juice is kept for this cuvée, aged for 10 months in used barrels, malolactic conversion completed in the spring, no fining, no filtration, small doses of SO2 added incrementally during vinification and aging, 70-90 ppm total SO2 at bottling.