Few producers have been as polarizing as Radikon, fewer still have been so for so long. Maybe it’s the color, but these wines have always seemed vaguely reminiscent of John Coltrane’s Impulse recordings, which all but abandon melody, song structure, and harmony. Like those albums, these wines don’t fit into the normal format that we are familiar with when tasting skin contact white wines: enticing aromatics, soft mid-palate structure, crisp dry finish.

In the glass you are greeted with oxidative notes of orange peel, persimmons, honey, bergamot tea, dried mango, wet stones, and forest floor. The acidity drives a rather rich juicy-velvety texture intertwined with a deceptively supple minerality that is shadowed by firm tannins with a long earthy slightly herbal finish.

This wine is ever evolving in the glass, and to the curious, you will be rewarded by continuing its evolution and re-tasting the wine after it’s been opened over the course of a week. Much like the Impulse recordings, this wine takes a few listens to appreciate and realize that it’s the product of an artist attempting to carve a new path, rather than one trying to write a catchy tune.