About the producer, from Regal Wines:

"The story of Alain Brumont is the story of Tannat and how such an irascible, tannic grape could be tamed without betraying its true character. It happened through the will of a man…a man of many telling nicknames (France’s Angelo Gaja, the Che of the Vines, the Garibaldi of the Southwest, Madiran’s Fighting Bull)…with an unrelenting attention to detail and nature that is illustrated by his childlike fascination with a new vineyard insect, even after four decades in the fields, as we saw during a visit in July 2019.

In the 1970s, Madiran wines were slipping into irrelevance. Vineyards were either ploughed under or switched from the native Tannat varietal to international varietals. In 1979, after pursuing greater wine education in Bordeaux, he returned to Bouscasse to claim an inheritance of 17 hectares. He acquired the run-down estate of Chateau Montus in the following year.

Forty years later, as of 2019, Alain owns 350 hectares and rents (with full control) another 250 hectares in the area. A short hand for understanding the expanse of holdings: Chateau Bouscasse, which is in the western part of Madiran and blessed with iron-rich limestone clay with sharp rocks, is most akin to Right Bank Bordeaux. Chateau Montus, which is in the eastern part and graced with red clay and big round rocks, is more similar to the Left Bank."

Flor impressions:

Brumont's "XL" is true to his style: a big, tannic wine, which saw extended, multi-year aging in barrel to gradually soften its tannins. What sets XL apart is that they used larger format barrels, rather than 225L Bordeaux barriques. This seems to have given XL a bit more life and lift, as at age 28, it is still full of energy and verve. 

Lively, complex aromas of pipe tobacco, soy sauce and smoke give way to cinnamon, clove and allspice. Soft textured, fine, yet ample tannins are balanced perfectly by mouth watering acidity. It's big, but balanced, and remarkably fresh and bright at this age. Fruits - blackberry and currant - are still tasting fresh, not dried or baked. Savory, earthy accents and spice appear on the lengthy finish.

-GG, tasted 10/16/24