Notes from De Maison Selections:
One of the most exciting and special wines made on Mallorca, Ca’n Xicatlà is from a single, old vineyard, offering a window to a bygone area of viticulture. It is a very limited production wine which can lean towards white or orange in color, depending on the vintage, produced from 1ha of traditional en vaso (goblet) trained vines planted in the 1950s near the village of Camí Vell de Muro.
Ca’n Xicatlà is planted to the indigenous mantonegro cabellis grape, a rare mutation of the red mantonegro. Cabellis is a variety of mantonegro which was widely planted in Binissalem during the mid-20th century. However, nowadays, it is near extinction due to its irregular phenolic maturity, giving annual variation of white, pink, and red grapes on the same plant. The local vine-growers coined the name cabellis to distinguish it from the regular red mantonegro. Even though genetically and legally, both variants are designated as mantonegro, the cabellis variant produces wildly different wines than its red counterpart.
Tomeu Llabrés is a viticultor, practicing minimum intervention winemaking and low impact viticulture by leaving the cover crop during the cold season and encouraging biodiversity within his parcels and environment through polyculture. In his converted garage winery in the center of the ancient town of Binissalem, his wines are handmade, without additions, subtractions, or corrections. His primary objective with each cuvée is maximum respect and transparency for his terroir and culture, as well as for the customers who enjoy his wine."