When taking about Burgundy you’ll often hear things like, “this guy plays golf with Guillaume D’Angerville and models his wine like his,” or “that gal is the grandniece of Aubert de Villaine and used to ride her tricycle in the courtyard of DRC.” Silly stuff, usually, as it takes more than some tenuous connection to really count in the bottle. If you smell a ‘but’ coming on, you are correct. BUT this domaine has been tied to that of Jacky Truchot – who retired in 2005 and whose wines are carefully guarded by those lucky enough to be holding a few bottles. It is run by Philippe who has taken over from his father Henri. Henri is a contemporary, friend, and neighbor to Jacky Truchot, and there is a commonality to their wines. With many of the same vineyards sources and approaches in the winery.

The Jouan wines could be described as slightly coarser in comparison, which is like comparing silk and satin and calling the satin rough. Philippe has continued the winemaking practices of his father. The domaine, located in Morey-St.-Denis, is tiny. Farming less than four hectares in the Cotes de Nuits, and selling most of his grapes, they do not produce much. The winemaking is all about bringing their old vines to prominence. 100% destemming, gentle extractions, cool fermentations, and minimal influence of new wood across the range. As simplistic as it sounds these wines taste how you want them to taste. They are expressive of their origin, giving of fruit, and texturally lush and elegant, but balanced with tension, and with a subtle earthiness and minerality we crave.

Philippe Jouan, Vieilles Vignes Chambolle Musigny 2020 - $120                                     From three different parcels in the village of Chambolle. The wine is elegant with delicate spice and rose petal. There is a lovely red fruit that is concentrated in the attack and airy on the finish, and a delicate fresh earth undertone peeking through.
Philippe Jouan, Aux Echézeaux, Gevrey Chambertin 2020 - $120                                A real "secret" is this Gevrey-Chambertin "Aux Echézeaux", a single parcel of 80 year vines adjoining Charmes-Chambertin.
Philippe Jouan, Vieilles Vignes Morey Saint Denis 2020 - $99                                 The Morey is a blend of three lieux-dits: Crais, Gillon, and Cognées. The wine is a titular Morey with ripe cherry, berry, soil, and spice. It has an almost sappy core, and a smokey savory, loamy edge to the finish. The texture is lush and velvety. A grin forms while sipping.
Philippe Jouan, 1er Cru Clos Sorbé Morey Saint Denis 2020 - $215                        The Jouans regard this 1er Cru vineyard, as their other Grand Cru site, and is broadly acknowledged as one of the top 1er Crus of Morey-St.-Denis. The vines are well over 80 years old. Succulent is a great descriptor of this wine. Showing the lovely berry fruit of the village with spice, cocoa, rose, and loamy soil. It’s full-bodied and fleshy, but with fine tannins and structure to balance. A very very very long finish.
Philippe Jouan, Grand Cru Clos Saint Denis 2020 - $360                                          The single grand cru comes from the historic Clos St. Denis, specifically two miniscule holdings both sited in the Maison Brûlée section of the vineyard.  The vines are 100 years old, with absurdly low yields and predictably miserly production. The Clos Saint Denis is like the Clos Sorbé cranked up. The balance of concentrated power and structured vibrancy is what makes something like this truly deserving of the moniker Grand Cru!