Notes from Louis/Dressner Selections:
Antonio Perrino is arguably the top producer of the tiny appellation of Dolceacqua. In a region where small production is the norm because the region is largely made up of miniscule parcels of steeply terraced vineyards. Antonio has just under a hectare of old, alberello trained vines that produce at very low yields, but outstanding quality. The oldest vines are about 100, but most are around 30 to 40 years old. The majority of Antonio's Rossese is planted over clay and limestone in the Arcagna vineyard. A picturesque site filled with wild herbs and considered one of the best vineyards in the appellation. Antonio has worked with the fickle Rossese his entire life and he continues to champion it despite the growing trend to the contrary with more local vignaioli ripping out Rossese and planting international varieties in its place. He also has an even smaller quantity of Vermentino from thirty year old vines planted amongst his olive grove (containing 1000 year old trees).
The wines are made in his garage, one of the smallest winemaking setups we have seen. He crafts his compelling wines with just several large old barrels and a vertical press. His total production is just seven barrels. For the Rossese di Dolceacqua, the fruit is macerated whole-cluster for two weeks and then foot-tread. The Vermentino spends four days macerating on its skins. Both of the wines are vinified with native yeasts, aged in barrel for a year and bottled without fining or filtration. His winemaking techniques have remained consistent since Antonio first began making wines with his father over fifty years ago. The wines are of a different era and have an almost timeless quality to them."