Notes from North Berkeley Imports:
Cotat Sancerre is simply some of the most singular Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Like his cousin François, Pascal Cotat (with his winery in Sancerre) crafts uncanny wines that defy both time and definition. These are wines that can age for decades effortlessly, and that marry a plush richness with a laser-like cut and energy. Cotat as a rule harvests by hand and very late, as pushing ripeness to the extreme is one element that gives his wines their weighty texture and complexity. To wit, “They are some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs I have ever put to my lips,” says Robert Parker.
Pure summer berry flavors and a whiff of crushed chalk on the finish. This “non-vintage” vin de table is indeed grown within the Sancerre appellation, yet was declassified by village authorities as part of an unfortunate small-town spat. (Officials want to build a parking lot over the vineyard.) So far, the fight continues, and Cotat’s vines—planted in the 1930s—are safe for now.