Family-owned since 1774, Müller-Catoir is now owned by Philipp David Catoir, the 9thgeneration. Philipp David works alongside Martin Franzen, who is responsible for both vineyards and cellar. Martin originally comes from the Mosel, bringing experience as head of operations at Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe and at Gut Nagelsforst in Baden. Franzen joined the winery in 2002, taking over from legendary winemaker Hans-Günther Schwarz, who made Catoir a household name in Germany and abroad. Hans-Günther had a reputation as a great and friendly mentor to two generations of some of the best winemakers in Germany, Austria, and Alsace. Martin has continued this tradition and has become one of the most respected winemakers in Germany.
Again I chose the more fascinating, even demanding, of two options. The scent is a riot of every fragrant leaf, led by sweet mint. The palate jabs with smelling-salt penetration. The mineral crush is large and stubborn. It’s an introvert’s poem of green and gray.