While Rossese di Dolceacqua produces the most cellar-worthy examples of Rossese, Durin provides us with the freshest and purest example I’ve ever tried. This one is meant to be consumed young as its allure is the intoxicating notes of underripe strawberries, raspberry compote and roses that greet you from the glass. Incredibly mineral-driven with an acidity that pushes its lean juicy/silky body towards a mouthwatering and slightly spicy finish. Best served with a slight chill, 15-minute decanting recommended.

 Winemaker Antonio Basso represents the third generation of farmers from Ortovero, and tends some 259 separate, small vineyards on steep hillsides just three miles away from the Mediterranean. Altitude here ranges from 150 feet to as high as 2,100 feet.