Thomas Pico has established himself as as a devoted organic grower in the inhospitable vinegrowing region of Chablis. The Premier Crus of Côte de Jouan, Beauregard and Butteaux (from within Montmains) are from hillside vineyards between 30 and 55 years old, and are all raised in older oak. Pico’s naturally-farmed and -produced wines are the essence of “Chablis”, but not only in their briny minerality. There is a sense of vitality to the wines, and a textured density that can only come from dedicated work in the vineyards and transparent winemaking.