Domaine Dureuil Janthial, 'En Guesnes Wadana' Rully Rouge 2020
France / Red

Domaine Dureuil Janthial, 'En Guesnes Wadana' Rully Rouge 2020

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William Kelley:

"Produced from a parcel planted in 1950, the 2020 Rully en Guesnes Wadana (formerly his cuvée Vieilles Vignes) was processed manually; Dureuil's team removed the clusters' rachis by hand, retaining the berries attached to their pedicels, à la Lalou Bize-Leroy. Offering up aromas of wild berries, sweet exotic spices and classy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a deep and concentrated core, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish.

What remains to be said about Vincent Dureuil? The word "talent" is over-used in wine writing. Certainly Dureuil is talented, but he is also, on the one hand, immensely hardworking, and on the other, an experienced taster who drinks great wine on a regular basis. This is why his wines are so good; and, while reviews in this publication may have expedited the inevitable, it was only a matter of time until Domaine Dureuil-Janthial became one of Burgundy's highly allocated producers. The 2020s at this address have turned out predictably brilliant, combining much of the cut and tension of 2017 with some of the charm and grace Dureuil realized in 2018 (few did better in that vintage, incidentally). As ever, they are worth a special effort to seek out."

Pinot Noir
’En Guesnes’ is made up of two distinct parcels, separated by premier cru ‘Meix Cadot.’ East-facing, the plot’s soils are rich in clay. The rough meaning of ‘guesnes’ in dialect is “source of water.” In ancient Galois speech, water was “wadana.” This wine is a selection of fruit from the oldest vines in ‘Guesnes,’ planted in 1950.
Hand-harvested and hand-destemmed (leaving just the pedicel or berry stem intact). Cold maceration for a week; fermented on indigenous yeasts in open-top wooden fermenters. Aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, according to the lunar calendar