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Morgen Long, 'X Omni' Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2021
United States / White

Morgen Long, 'X Omni' Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2021

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Notes from the winemaker:

"I worked my first harvests in the Willamette Valley during sommelier training in 2009 and 2010. I traveled in 2011 for harvests in Central Otago and the Santa Cruz Mountains before returning to the Willamette Valley for my third harvest in one year. In 2012, I worked harvest in Meursault at Domaine de Montille. I returned to de Montille in the fall of 2013 to focus on Chardonnay. In Meursault, I discovered the blueprint for my life’s great work in the Willamette Valley. I am the first winemaker in Oregon 100% focused on Willamette Valley Chardonnay. Sincerity and reverence guide me. Each fall, I begin again, grateful for the harvest. Each winter, I attend to the wines. Each spring, I bottle. Each summer, I host. Morgen Long is named after my family.

2021: Bud break occurred during a warm week in mid-April, and May was warm and dry. After an early start to bloom, the second week of June brought cooler, breezy, and humid weather, with 1.25 inches of rain. Flowering finished closer to average timing in the second and third weeks of June. At the end of the month, a strong high-pressure system trapped extreme heat in the valley for three days, causing daytime highs to reach 115°F and causing the vines to shut down. July was seasonably warm and dry, with the heat intensifying towards the end of the month. Early August was hot and dry, reaching a peak of 105° F in the second week before cooling off towards the end of the month. September was a very pleasant month, with warm days, cool evenings, and just enough precipitation. I began picking in the Dundee Hills on August 30th and I finished in the Eola-Amity Hills on September 22nd. The wines are brilliant, crystalline and complex with well-defined site character."

United States
Willamette Valley
Practicing biodynamic/regenerative-ecological since inception
Volcanic clay on basalt
Fruit is handpicked at an optimal range of physiological, sugar and acid ripeness. I crush clusters into the press and employ extractive press cycles to obtain high acidity must (juice), with substantial turbidity and flavonoid phenol content. I do not sulfur must in the press pan, allowing fragile flavonoid phenols to oxidize. After 6-12 hours of browning (oxidation) during cold settling, I sulfur the must to halt oxidation and development of biogenic amines. After 12-24 hours, the sulfured must is slowly warmed. Ambient fermentation typically begins a day or two later, and the fermenting must is transferred to 265L, 350L, 400L and 500L Damy barrels and puncheons. I exclusively use 24-month seasoned staves from select French forests (Vosges, Jura, Bertranges, Allier) with long light toast. I encourage warm to hot fermentation temperatures. If the must will benefitsfrom chaptalization, acidulation, or organic nutrients, I accommodate - I place equal value on ‘nature’ and ‘nurture’; in other words, I refuse ideology or dogma. Lees are rarely stirred, only as needed if progress slows towards the end of primary fermentation. Once primary fermentation and malolactic are complete, the wines are sulfured and age in a cold cellar. After one year in barrel, the wines are transferred to stainless steel with inert gas to integrate for a second winter. The wines ares sometimes fined and gently filtered before bottling at 18 months.