Vincent Boyer of Domaine Boyer-Martenot values both innovation and tradition, his wines exemplify this. Vincent approaches the elevage of the wines like no other Burgundian vigneron that we know . Overtly oaky, fruity, or reductive notes are eschewed in favor of wines that push the expression of grape and place further to the fore front. The domaine is located in the village of Meursault and most of its 24 acres of vines are there – there is some Puligny too – and 9 different Meursaults, all but one being from single vineyards, are produced. The recipe, so to speak, is similar across the board. Hand harvested, fermented with indigenous years in tank, aged for one year in barrel (usually 20%-30% new), and all the wines are aged an additional year in unlined concrete egg shaped tanks.
Charmes lies at the southern end of Meursault at the border with Puligny-Montrachet. Soils are silty and stony, with a vein of iron rich earth. Charmes always befuddles and amazes me with the dichotomy of its powerful richness and tense structure. In a way this wine epitomizes Vincent’s winemaking talents. It doesn’t hide from what the grapes and the land wants it to be, which is structured and bold, but he laces in the elegance that lies within. White flowers, pear, apple, hint of hazelnut, and silky texture.